Thursday 27 August 2015

Paroikia

21 Aug, we left Mykonos, with the wind blowing 15-20, we put up sails immediately before leaving anchorage with the hope of having a nice sail.. No sooner had we left the south of Mykonos when the wind died down to 6kts. We motored the rest of the way to Paroikia, Paros. We had to get there quite early as charter boats were returning and a Meltemi was in the forecast. We arrived at exactly the right moment, as charter yachts were leaving, we had a spot on the dock. Later in the afternoon, the wind picked up as forecast, still below 20, but occasionally crossing 30. We were welcomed by Jack and Nikki(if you are tempted to have the Greek Island experience - head to Paros and stay at Nikki's) , friends of Ian and Shelly. We went out for some drinks on Friday night and to listen to some music at the beerhall - a good night was had by all. 

On Saturday the wind was really picking up and the boats were swaying a bit with the masts getting pretty cozy with each other TAG, not wanting this kind of affection, moved out to anchor. Jack and Nikki took us on a tour of the Island, we had lunch at Naousa (northern part) and sundowners on the south western part. We dropped off Sandra and Krista as they had to go back to Aus and we had a quite night. When I got back to my boat and a 50ft boat had docked alongside ne and was using me as his spring line with fenders holding him off me. The wind had picked up and was now constantly between 20-30kts. With help from others, we moved the 50ft boat away from me to take some of the load off my anchor. His anchor wasn't properly set as next mooring he was touching me again. I decided to head out to the anchorage as the harbour attendant had advised everyone to leave the harbour and head to anchor as the Meltemi blows onto the dock..

I dropped anchor and that is where I have been since. On Sunday night we went to Pirate night at Naousa and have been doing sight seeing or just spending time on the boats..

I have decided to head for Marmaris sooner rather than later as I need to prepare for the crossing and don't want to rush this stage. Jack has offered to come along to Marmaris as he likes sailing, so that is the plan for now. I note expect to be in Turkey, 4 or 5th.

- Update..
Jack and Nikki have made our stay on Paros quite memorable and that island stands out in my mind as one worth re-visiting - caveat being the people we met are still there.

As with all things in life the good times get put on hold as friends part company.

On the Friday, Brian, Amalia and the crew left and had to go back to real life. They graciously entertained us with their awesome company and music - it was a pleasure to meet you all and all the best.

On Saturday, TAG also had to go, you will be missed, it was a pleasure sailing with you, I wish TAG's skipper Shelly and her trusty helmsman, Ian all the best may the winds forever be kind to you and TAG.

To offset the departure of friends, Troll, came down to spend the day with me - the original plan was for me to sail to Santorini - however in sailing much more than other activities, the apt saying of "the best laid plans". In the end Troll flew from Zurich to Santorini on Friday, caught the ferry to Paros spent the Saturday being entertained by the boats docking and my attempts to help them - and there were many. On that day the winds were blowing up to 20 kts from just off the bow - the boats had to dock stern too, with dropping the anchor.  The one poor skipper, did not manage to set his anchor and in the process ended up scoring a trifecta - he managed to get snagged on 3 boats as he tried to leave the dock. After a lot of help, he was pulled clear and fortunately a space the other side of the harbour became vacant.  On the Sunday, Troll left to go back to Santorini and home the following day - a big thanks for coming out to see me.


At anchor looking at the dock - home for 5 days

Naosa by day

Sundowners at the south western side of Paros

Pirate night at Paros - Rob dresses this way most of the time

Naosa

Venetian fort, constructed with material from demolished temple of Athena

Sunset at Jack and Nikki's where we had an awesome fish braai

Sunset from the roof of Jack and Nikki's

Sun's job done for the night..

Brian, Shuggy, and Shiela playing

Brian and Shuggy playing some more Shiela went to make the most of the weather (they were leaving tomorrow)

Docked next to TAG, just before she sailed off

Farewell TAG, may the winds ever be favourable!

Interesting way to insentivise people..

New crew - Jack going to join me to Marmaris and hopefully further

Thursday 20 August 2015

Mykonos

20 Aug, set off this am from Didmi to Mykonos, the wind was directly behind, most of the time, it sometimes can be pretty shifty, it was only blowing up to 10. It was a short trip and we arrived shortly after lunch and dropped anchor. We are at the southern end of the Island. So far I have to say that I can't imagine getting on a plane to spend time here. Don't get me wrong, it is quite pretty, but the music blaring from the beach... The resort to our SB side, when facing North- so far 2 helicopters have dropped off guests... TAG's crew have gone on a bus trip into Mykonos town, I'm updating my blog.. Tomorrow we are off to Paxos to seek shelter from the Meltemi..





Didmi

20 Aug, we left Korissia at 10ish and shortly after leaving the wind picked up - initially 10 but worked its way up to 28, it was the first full day of sailing I've had, I did 40NM, mostly under sail speeds were between 6-9, we were mostly reaching. We anchored in a small cove had a BBQ and a good night's rest. We were woken this am to the sounds of shotguns - locals hunting on the island

Tuesday 18 August 2015

Kourissa

18Aug, left Sounios at 10ish as we are just island hopping, 25NM later, mostly under sail,we anchored at Kourissa... Updating my blog and reading a book for the rest of the day..

Sounios

17 Aug, we left Zea Marina at 14h00, it was a late start, but we needed to provision and wait fit the groceries to be delivered. It was a short sail to our Sounios, it is a small sheltered bay and overlooking it is a temple to Poseidon. We managed to sail for two hours, which was better than either TAG or myself have done on quite some time.

Monday 17 August 2015

Athens

For the last two days we have taken the Redbus trip into Athens, from Zea Marina. On these two occasions, I have tried to identify a side of Athens, that would persuade of one day returning, sadly this was not to be. Most cities, that I have visited on my trips, have had a dilapidated part. In Athens I have found a dilapidated, grimy city, covered with graffiti, rundown buildings, the nice part completely unsighted by me. I can definitely say I will *NOT* be visiting this city in the future.

We visited the Acropolis and it was quite nice, but in my opinion wasn't out of the ordinary if compared to the Oracle at Delphi.

Tomorrow, we leave as I am sailing with TAG and we are heading to the Aegean, myself to Marmaris.

Friday 14 August 2015

Athens Zea Marine

12 Aug, set off from just outside the Corinth Canal to Zea Marina in the Port of Piraeus - that is a collection of ports in Athens..  The wind was flight and directly behind, intitialy it was helping along and then it would switch 20-30 degrees which meant I took down the sails and motored on.  In the bay of Piraeus, you had to watch out for hydrofoils, these things move along at 30kts..  In the bay there are a number of unused ships, not sure if they are abandoned or not... I arrived at Zea Marina and docked Alongside TAG - Finally aught up, last time I saw them was at Port St Louis, back in May... The following day, I went to the Mercury dealer to pick up a fuel tank for my outboard as the lid had broken off...  Today the plan is to go on the Red bus and take a sight seeing trip of Athens,,l
I don't want this boat (scratch the name off and sorted!)

Not sure what this one is doing here either - no name

Entering Zea Marina

Next to Tag

Broken fuel tank.

Corinth Canal

12 Aug, I left Galxidi earlish, as I was heading for the Corinth canal, which supposedly is closed on Tuesday's for repair. The wind was helping someone else for the first 2 hours then, it picked up and I decided I would sail - regardless of the speed as I only had to cover 40NM. I put my sail up and sailed for 2 hours, before the wind decided to help someone else.
I arrived at the Canal to discover that it wasn't closed and you could go thorough. I announced myself at 14h00 and was informed that cash or paying an agent was the only form of payment accepted. There was another boat there and he was informed to standby for 15 minutes then he could proceed - things were looking up, Athens seemed just around the corner..  Fifteen minutes went by and crickets.... We got a call on the radio after 45 minutes that there was going to be an hour delay (on top of his 15 minutes - our 45). So with nothing to do, I just drifted along the shore waiting to be called...  Eventually, we were hailed and told to prepare to go pass, a big tanker followed by a number of sailing boats exited and we were cleared to enter, first a motorboat, a sail boat followed by two other sail boats.. The two other sailboats, did not have an issue with this, one cut the 60ft sailboat in front of me off and the other was about to do the same, I radioed in and asked for clarification..  The two Maroons were instructed to stop and wait - one acknowledged the other couldn't care less.. The winds were picking up a little bit, occasionally, we would get puffs of 20 and the skies were darkening in the direction of the wind...  Passing the canal was pretty scenic, and uneventful, at the other end I docked SB to, with no help, paid, by credit card and then left for a small anchorage, just to the left of the exit, had a swim, checked if my anchor had set, fired up the braai(BBQ) and after a good meal some sleep, next day Athens.
This was building as we were about to enter the canal

Supposed to be the order, Motor boat, Fifty/Fifty, then me, then another two boats..
Quite close to the entry



Just passing the first bridge (approx 2000m along)


Second to last bridge
Finally done, paid the passage fee - 210 OORO..
Farewell Corinth Canal
Dropped my Anchor and after eating watched the sun set...
After having breakfast, watching the sun come up

Galaxidi

10 Aug, set of nice and early to meet Tag, only to discover they had left as I was underway(had to drop off passengers). Going under the Rhion bridge was quite nice, you call ahead 5 NM, then again at 1. The bridge is quite a feat of engineering, at 2.6km, it is the longest cable stayed bridge. One thing that boggles the mind -  despite having a what I suspect a multilane bridge, there still is a fully functioning ferry service immediately, alongside it - WTF..

I got to Trizonia(initial destination) at 14h00 I consulted the Pilot guide and found Galaxhidi or Itea - either of these are the closest to the Oracle at Delphi. I figured since I wasn't going to catch up to TAG in a hurry might as well see a site. I motored on, I turned into a smaller cove as there was a nasty cloud to SB and the wind was starting to come in puffs and the sea was looking agitated further south. After a 2 attempts my anchor set but not enough swinging room, so the time was now 1800 so I decided to go to Galaxhidi. Shortly after leaving the small gulf, I heard a thud and a lot of vibration from the drive. I immediately assumed I'd struck something and my prop was damaged, I put the engine in neutral, reved it a bit and still it was vibrating, but sounded fine. I was on a bit of a Lee shore(300m) I put up my jib and was moving away quite nicely, I then decided I was going to Itea as it was a bigger harbour. I called Itea harbour, letting them now that I had a problem with my prop, but I was going to sail to outside the harbour and would need assistance entering and docking. I was just passing Galaxhidi, Itea insisted I stop there, I advised him no, I wanted to continue. He got back and said they had dispatched someone to help me to Galaxhidi. I continued sailing towards Galaxhidi. A small boat approached and told me he had been sent by the coastguard, I told him I could sail in bit only needed help entering the port and tieing up. Itea harbour came back and asked me if someone had arrived. I said they had and things were OK. I let the guy tow me, I asked that he just tie up alongside as it would be easier than towing. He insisted on towing, I again told him to tie up alongside and he agreed. After 10 minutes, we were tied up, the Port Police there to greet me. Nikos(pirate) came to me before the coastguard spoke to me and told me it was going to be 350 + 50 for the port police, he told me to keep it quite and come and speak to him after I spoke to the Port Police - I was speechless.

The Port Police was extremely professional and helpful and asked me to go speak to them once I'd tidied up and relaxed.I paid for my berth, 10 bucks for the night+ water+electricity ( I didn't use either), went to the port Police with.my documents. I asked him why I was paying this guy 300+50 for them. They were not happy at all, they don't take money for helping and doing their job and started calling asking WTF. They immediately called their commander and told me not to pay anything till if discussed the matter with him tomorrow. He tried to call a mechanic for me and since he got no reply, he told me to come back early tomorrow and he would walk me over to the mechanic.
I went back to the boat for a shower, then went out for dinner. I woke up this am, had breakfast, read the instructions on the prop, tried the gopro camera, but that didn't work so well. Then put on swimming mask, went under the boat and was somewhat reassured by what I sa - a bloody lot of plastic around my still intact 3 bladed kiwiprop. I took some air, ripped away the plastic, checked that all blades still feathered freely, which they did. I started the motor, put it in forward 1800rpm no vibration, no funny noise.. Tried reverse same result.. Everything sounded fine - I still need to inspect mountings and saildrive oil. Much relieved I went and updated my blog.
Come 9am, I went to the Port Police and told them I had fixed the problem and I didn't need a mechanic. I was asked to tie my boat stern to as I was tied alongside and come back at 10 since the commander Janis would be in and wanted to understand what happened.

So far my experience with the Port Police has been extremely good, very professional and helpful. Janis didn't disappoint, we went through all the events and he agreed that 350 was a bit steep, since the sea was calm and we were less than a mile from port, however, this matter was between myself and Nikos. It was explained that the Port Police, is the coastguard and also deals with enforcing and policing harbours, inland it is the Police's responsibility. He advised me to try to speak to Nikos, should that fail he would have to get involved as he was the law. He signed my logbook, to reflect that I had requested assistance and cleared me on my way since there was no issues.. On to deal with the pirate..

He wanted to go aboard my boat and I refused. I told him what he was asking was unrealistic, he insisted it wasn't , I offered him 100 euro and he went off to the Port Police. John(Janis) tried to speak some sense into him that 350 was a bit steep (Pirate said the extra 50 wasn't for the Port Authority, but for his helper - I asked him why he ran off and told me not to mention this to Port Police) - clearly a misunderstanding... Within 15 minutes he had a lawyer and they were upstairs speaking. Long story short he Pirate and his Lawyer started threatening to impound my boat an go to court - over 350 Euro. His lawyer informed me that she charges 120 an hour and this could become expensive - I pointed out equally for her client.. After a while I asked if there was a lawyer I could speak to as this was sounding fishy, a guy dispatched by the coastguard to help, tows you to dock, 1000m and he can charge what he wants?  They got a lawyer to come and offer advice.. His advice, despite the facts, there was a 60/40 chance I could loose and the cost would be 1-2k.. Talk about a clusterfuck, at this point I just wanted to get out of there, I reluctantly paid the Thieving Pirate 300 Euro, asked for a receipt - he would have to pay the tax on that..

By 14h00, I was done with the Pirate and I decided to go off and see the Oracle at Delphi. I took one bus to Itea, changed and then off to see the Oracle. Delphi itself, is a nice hilltop town, sadly rather empty, a lady, I got talking to on the way, said the hotels were empty in town and she was paying 25 OORO per night.. I walked around the ruins and they were fairly impressive.  There are three sites, the Sanctuary of Appollo, the Kastalia spring and Sanctuary of Athena.  The main site is the temple of Appollo on the site they had an amphitheater and a stadium, where the first Olimpic games were held - the stadium had seating capacity for 5000, it is pretty impressive.. After wondering around for a while, I wend back to Delphi, had some food waited for the bus and back to the boat, next day - Corinth Canal, unfortunately, it was closed between 06H00-18H00...
Approaching Rion Bridge (Andarion is on the left)


Cleared it..

Being "Helped" by Thieving Nikos
Docked at Galaxidi

The source of my problems - new pet peeve, plastic at sea!
New dock - stern to, with anchor.
At Delphi, looking at Itea
 Entering Sanctuary of Apollo, the first set of structures are the Roman Agroa
Roman Agora


Looking back at Mount Parnasos



 Not sure what these are but the writing was still pretty legible..


 Walking up along the sacred way, on the left and right are various remnants of structures housing treasure collections to honour Apollo.


Navel Stone
 This was where legend has is that Zeus that two golden eagles dispatched by Zeus to discover the centre of the world met.

 The treasure of the Athenians.
 There were originally four (only two remain) semi circular structures that were used in part of a ceremony to commemorate the slaying of Pythos, by Apollo - Pythos had been the guardian of Ge (Earth deitity) that the original peoples worshiped.
Looking up at the Temple of Apollo - the retaining wall is quite impressive


 Looking back down the sacred way at the treasury of the Athenians

Entrance to Temple of Apollo

Some Roman Emperor wanting to leave his mark..



 Some photos of the Temple of Apollo.

 This amphitheater was acoustically tuned - if one stood in the centre one could be heard clearly all the way up to the tom, quite impressive. As part of the Panhelenic games, this used to host theatrical contests.
 View from the theater
 Still higher yet, looking down at the amphitheater and the Temple of Apollo.
 One of the first Olympic stadia - quite impressive, it could seat 5000 people..


Comfi charis all the way back.


Aqueduct used to bring water down to the sanctuary buildings

Yet another picture of the Temple of Apollo
 An alter used to worship
 Romans leaving their signature walls..

Then one walks further down the road, towards the Spring of Calista spring where people seeking answers would clense themselves before proceeding to the Oracle - guess that is what I did wrong!!!

Spring of Calista

Looking down at a gymnasium and up at the Sanctuary of Apollo
 Then onwards to the Sanctuary of Athena, that site houses the Tholos and is flanked by two temples built cirat 5-4th Centure BC
Tholos at the centre




 Looking down at the Sanctuary of Athena, the Tholos, flanked by two temples. I then walked back up the hill towards the museum which houses artifacts dug up in the thre sites.

Bronze figurines

 A bunch of shields that were unearthed..


An alter to a diety

Axe heads and helmets
 Friezes of the various structures are housed in this building, the detail on these things is quite impressive..


Sphynx
 The Shpynx was stood atop a large column.




Athena
 These gold bits and bobs were part of ceremonial gear worn by the priest/ess


On the left are bronze/silver artifacts in exquisit detail - on the right, the things used to protect them (I guess)

The details on these stone figurines is pretty impressive

Twins of Thalos (on the pedestal of the one on the right, is the sculptor's name)


Plate unearthed

Bronze inscence burner




 The column housing the Navel stone.

 The Chariteer, was a bronze scutlpture, from the dedication by Polyzalos, the tyrant of Gela of Sicily, for his victory in the Pythian games 478 or 474 BC.

 Renditions of the Sanctuary of Appollo.


Real Sphynx
 On the way back to the boat, took this picture as the bus was going down the mountain..
 Galaxidi, is on the right, the inlet to the sould of the first spit.

Farewell Galxidi